56

Karabagh Silk Embroidery, South Caucasus, 18th century

1 ft. 10 in. x 1 ft. 9 in.; backed

  • Provenance: Sotheby's New York, 19 December 1992, Lot 7.
  • Literature:
    - Hali 67. "Auction Price Guide." Hali Publications Ltd: London, 1993, p. 131.
    - Boralevi, Alberto, Moya Carey, Murray L. Eiland III, Michael Franses, Irina Koshoridze, Sumru Belger Krody, Brian Morehouse, Penny Oakley, Asli Samadova and Jennifer Wearden. Stars of the Caucasus: Silk Embroideries From Azerbaijan. Hali Publications Ltd: London, 2018, p. 81, no. 4.28.
  • Notes: This embroidery and others in its small group comprise a group of textiles with designs derived from Safavid Persian models. They feature a central roundel which contains a male and female figure flanking a cypress tree with a fish poled at its base. The figures could conceivably represent the legend of Layla and Majnoon. Michael Franses pictured an example in Textile Art of the Caucasus, pl. 2.* and dates it and similar pieces to circa 1650 to 1720. (* Lefevre 4/27/29 #12 = Wher Collection = Rippon Boswell 5/24/97 #103.). Another well published related example is illustrated Schurmann, Caucasian Rugs, pl. 138 (= Herrmann, S.O.T. X, Cover = Orient Stars #42 = Hali 42, p. 6, E.J. Katz, Hamburg). Our piece is more naively drawn than the two cited examples and I believe is somewhat later, probably dating to the 2nd half of the 18th century. Other related examples with similar themes include an embroidery in the Textile Museum (Gherch 21, p. 70) and a piece in the Kuwait National Museum from the Al-Sabah Collection (Marilyn Jenkins, Islamic Art in the Kuwait National Museum, p. 154).

    [Sotheby's New York catalogue caption ] 7. A Silk Karabagh Embroidery, South Caucasus, 18th century
    Minor losses to outer guard borders. Approximately 1 ft. 9 in. by 1 ft. 10 in. (0.53 m by 0.56 m)
    For related examples, please refer to Herrmann, Eberhart, Seltene Orientteppiche X, Munich, 1988, cover illustration, and Schurmann, Ulrich, Caucasian Rugs, London, 1964, pl. 138, and Jenkins, Marilyn, Islamic Art in the Kuwait National Museum, 1983, p. 154.

    [Auction Price Guide caption] The colours of this embroidery were much darker than they appeared in the catalogue: the red is deeper and more sombre and the yellow is gold., not ochre-orange as in the illustration. It is attached to a backing, making it difficult to tell how complete it is, or to get another perspective on how much black, for instance, might have been replaced. It seems less sophisticated than the two examples with which it can immediately be compared, the embroidery on the front cover of Herrmann's SOT X and the round piece in the al-Sabah Collection (Marilyn Jenkins, Islamic Art in the Kuwait National Museum, p. 154). The Kuwait piece, however, is closely related in color, and all of the embroideries seem based on earlier Safavid models (16th century) such as the great Esterhazy applique in the Museum of Applied Arts, Budapest ( Hali 33, p. 19).
  • Condition: Please note: All property is sold "AS IS" and any statement, whether oral or written, is given as a courtesy and shall not be deemed as a guarantee, warranty, or representation of the authenticity of authorship, physical condition, size, quality, rarity, importance, provenance, exhibitions, literature or historical relevance of the property or otherwise. The absence of a condition report does not imply the item is in perfect condition.

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