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VAN CLEEF & ARPELS 18K Gold, Platinum, 'Mystery-Set' Ruby, and Diamond Leaf Brooch

France; ca. 1935; the platinum leaf channel-set with baguette-cut diamonds; surmounted by five overlapping leaves mystery-set with square-, rectangular-, and fancy-shaped rubies; signed and numbered Van Cleef & Arpels 46258; French assay mark; 22.57 dwts.; lg. 3 3/8 in.; wd. 1 3/4 in.

  • Provenance: Property of a distinguished American Family.

    Van Cleef & Arpels invented the mystery setting in 1935. The design demands perfectly matched stones, hand-cut with four additional facets, to obscure the metal settings with dazzling reflections. The secret behind the alluring invisible setting is the net framework on the underside of each piece, enabling Van Cleef & Arpels to spectacularly model any form or movement. The technique lends itself brilliantly to depicting natural forms, exemplified by this striking ruby and diamond brooch.
  • Condition: rubies are deep vivid raspberry red, overall well-matched, several smaller stones at edges of deeper hue, cleanish to minor inclusions, one ruby with a chip, some surface scratches; diamonds approx. H/I, VS.

    Please note: All property is sold "AS IS" and any statement, whether oral or written, is given as a courtesy and shall not be deemed as a guarantee, warranty, or representation of the authenticity of authorship, physical condition, size, quality, rarity, importance, provenance, exhibitions, literature or historical relevance of the property or otherwise. The absence of a condition report does not imply the item is in perfect condition.

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November 7, 2021 11:00 AM EST
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